Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Photoessay #1018 - Coming to Kyoto


Though sometimes we wonder why exactly we decided to come here (we were having a great time in Yamagata), we have arrived in Kyoto. The trip down by 'superexpress' train was lovely. New wide fast smooth train from Tokyo. Beautiful vistas of countryside, town, oceans, cities.

On the way down, Nobuko and I got completely confused between the sights mentioned in my world's heaviest guidebook, my map in English, her tourist map in Japanese and her map. We couldn't figure out anything, all the names sounded the same and nothing seemed to be where it should be. Eventually she figured out something.

Kyoto's rail station is huge and beautiful. Filled with tons of people. There is a tourist office there, very very helpful. They will give you the scoop on what you want to see, maps, brochures, directions. They suggested a program on Japanese traditional arts designed for tourists in the Gion quarter (traditional geisha territory). We decide to go; there's even a city bus that runs from in front of our hotel right to Gion. Not cheap $31 and they don't take plastic but, what the heck. Turned out to be an excellent show in a gorgeous old theater. Short but each of the components was top rate. Some tea ceremony, akibana, traditional instruments, court music, puppet drama, geisha dancing.

My picture shows the dancing leader of traditional court music. He danced while leading men playing traditional instruments.

Truly a red lantern district outside with old wooden buildings housing bars and restaurants. Nobuko thought she saw a geisha. We saw the places I had read about, they're really private clubs and you can't enter if they don't know you. Prices for restaurants in the Gion Quarter very high. We leave the quarter searching for a less expensive alternative. Found one, a yakitori place kind of set back. Looked reasonable, very nice, not too many customers, the staff very motivated. Nobuko ordered but we really weren't sure what we ordered which didn't seem to correspond exactly but it was all delicious. First a platter of crisp cabbage with some mayonaisse sort of dip and the creamiest tofu. Then a beef thing with a poached egg in it, some specialty item which resembled fondue with bread in a cheese concoction, then some chicken yakitori rice bowls and a bunch of meat balls fixed in various ways. So tasty and bill real reasonable. So I would like to get a shout out for Kyo-Asovie in Kyoto.

Tomorrow we'll try for the Imperial Palace tour.

Nobuko, you're losing it. At one point, in the tourist office, she made a declaration to me "Nobuko, you are speaking to me in Japanese" She cracked up. Later she was talking to the taxi driver in English.

No comments: