My brother watching the wild surf on the north shore of Oahu in March 2007. We stayed at some cottages right on Ke Iki Beach. Oahu North Shore hosts world surfing championships every winter and I can see why! Check out the panorama shot of the surf just adjacent to Ke Iki below. One afternoon (maybe this very one), I stood with the surf coming around my ankles wearing my brother's flip flops. My brother was climbing on the rocks nearby. The waves rapidly rifled around my ankles sending up sprays of water. Blue green crests and considerable rumble. Suddenly, a big wave rolled in and ricocheted off the rocks behind me. My mobility is not the best and I was swept off my feet, went right over. Flat on my back, with angry water in my face. I shouted and my brother came and took my hand and I braced my legs against him while the water swirled all around. Whew! It took awhile for me to right myself, I could have really been swept out if he had not been there. Eventually I got up on my feet but I realized that his flip flops were gone. The surf had claimed them, nowhere to be seen, out to sea. Pretty embarrassing to be overcome so easily, but demonstrates how wild those waves can be. No kidding that you should stay out of the water!
But he's having some quiet time in this picture, watching the surf was always valued in my family. I loved the North Shore and would be glad to return someday.
2 comments:
I would love to experience the surf of Oahu. Maybe one day. You must have been scared to death when the surf took you down. One thing I loved about Myrtle Beach was how gentle the waves were. They were great to play in, but you felt safe.
Got surprised - in the middle of an ideal-like setting. I will remember to be carful the next time I walk on a tropical beach! meanwhile back in the midwest. Dry grass, little rain . . . crashing waves sound like heaven!
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